As I rode the rails on 
Amtrak's Crescent heading south to Birmingham, Alabama, these ominous tunes kept running through my head:
 But I was pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the people I met...
  | 
| Kevin, rescuer | 
  | 
| Tom,  peach schnapps bootlegger | 
...the hot blues oozing everywhere,
from headliners in clubs and breweries...
to local bands in juke joints & galleries 
 
 
The kind folks at the 
Alabama Theatre gave me a backstage tour of this restored 1927 gem 
 
  | 
| The Sorceress | 
and there was a lot to love at the 
art museum: 
  | 
| Diane Arbus | 
  | 
| a Bouguereau! | 
So, I was whistling a different tune on the way back north.  Not quite Dixie, but...
                                               
 
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